Cap de Creus – a uniquely bizarre, rough landscape of a wild beauty
Both seaward and landward, this region has been made a protected area several years ago. The sanctuary is called Parc Natural Cap de Creus. Here, the Eastern Pyrenees join the ocean and reach about 50 metres beyond the surface, falling down in dramatic cascades and steep faces until they meet the ocean’s ground. Surrealism itself seems to become real. On our way to Cap de Creus, we pass Portlligat and Dalì’s dwelling house. After the last, newly-built houses, we turn left to pull in on a small parking lot, a few steps away from the road. To our right, a path called camí de ronda leads to the coast. On a trip like this, hiking boots, swimming things and enough water are essential. After only a few metres’ walk, we reach a way that leads down to a bay called Platja de Sant Luis. It is said to be ideal for bathing. We decide to make a break here on our way back.Both seaward and landward, this region has been made a protected area several years ago. The sanctuary is called Parc Natural
For now, we follow the camí de ronda past a few wonderfully situated properties with large parcels of land and an astonishing view on the sea. Then we delve into the solitude of this bizarre world of rocks and stones. The colours range from amber and honey to dove-coloured schist and rosty red rocks that melt into the sea in a way that reminds us of Dalí’s pocket watches, and how their time would melt. The rocks around Cap de Creus shaped Dali’s works in many a way; they were both his home and is inspiration: “all the rocks of Cap de Creus are in a state of perpetual metamorphosis…everything is mere suggestion, allowing for the eye to spontaneously see an eagly, a camel, a chanticleer, a lion or a woman. I am convinced that I am the living core of this very landscape.“
The Beacon of Cap de Creus
The unique rocky landscape fascinates us as well. It has been forged from the stones by the sculptor Nature, and her tools were the Tramuntana, the sun and the sea. Once gotten in the charm, the onlooker can find a world as dreamlike as Dali’s mythical creatures. We can now see our goal in the distance, just behind yet another ascent: The beacon of Cap de Creus. Small yachts bob up and down in the waters of a small, hidden bay. With a boat, it easier to find those hidden paradises. If we wanted to take a refreshing bath now, we would have to climb down all the way to the sea. Thinking of the way back, we spare our strength for the ascent to the Cap.
The way up the beacon will take another two hours. Luckily, there is a bar and a restaurant there. In the very east of Spain, the Englishman Chris has been running a restaurant for a few years. Here you can take a break on a terrace with a fascinating view on the sea and the rocks. We decide for a fresh salad and some grilled sardines, knowing we will be grateful for it on our way back. We leave the terrace at about 4pm. The sun is hiding behind fleecy clouds. Going downhill now, we are faster than before. At the end of our walking-tour we climb further down to the small bay of Platja de Sant Luis. The pebble beach is empty. Exhausted, we sink into the refreshing waves. It is a real treat after this long day. Thus refreshed, we take a small walk through the alleys of Cadaqués, while evening falls around us. We watch the sun set from a bar at the beach of Cadaqués, drinking cooled beer. Surrounded by locals and tourists, we feel as if we were on a holiday – far, far away from everyday hassle.